About this guide

Dear Traveler,

Welcome to the Congaree River Blue Trail. South Carolina has been shaped by its rivers. So dominant are rivers to its history, economy, and health that entire regions of South Carolina are known by the rivers that course through them. Rivers were vital to the state’s beginning, providing transportation, food, and energy that drove the state’s economy, making it among the richest at the time of our nation’s birth. Today, South Carolina’s rivers remain a vital resource.

The Congaree River is one of South Carolina’s most precious resources. This guide will help you explore this incredible gem. It will give you an understanding of the area’s unique history, vast array of wildlife, and special natural and cultural places. This guide provides important safety and planning information and should be used with the Congaree River Blue Trail Map.

There's much to explore along the Congaree River. Starting near Columbia, the blue trail offers paddlers an urban adventure with opportunities to learn about the area's history. Continuing downstream, paddlers enter the Coastal Plain known for its countless sandbars, high bluffs, and extensive floodplains. The highlight of the trail is the section along Congaree National Park, a protected wilderness that’s home to the largest tract of old growth bottomland hardwood forest in the U.S. Paddlers and hikers can enjoy a 20-mile network of hiking trails within the park as well as camping, bird watching, and nature study.

Work has begun on the Wateree River Blue Trail. Starting near Camden, this 75-mile trail will also pass through Congaree National Park and continue to its confluence with Congaree. Both blue trails are in early stages of development. As support for these blue trails grow so too will access, signs, camping, and a strong conservation ethic among its visitors.

By connecting South Carolina communities with their rivers, these blue trails will enable residents and visitors to rediscover the benefits of these rivers. It's our hope that these blue trails ignite a recognition that these rivers not only provide a great place for recreation but are places worth protecting.

Sincerely,

Partners of the Congaree River Blue Trail:

American Rivers
Congaree Land Trust
Congaree National Park
Friends of Congaree Swamp
Richland County Conservation Commission
River Alliance
South Carolina Department of Natural Resources

Safety, planning, gear and weather

Safety

• Avoid boating alone.
• Always wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved life jacket.
• Read safety information and national park rules before your trip.
• Leave your route and return time with a relative or friend.
• Learn to control your boat and be able to stop the boat at any time and land on shore.
• Learn to recognize river hazards such as strainers, dams, and bridge piers.
• Avoid the low-head dam below the railroad trestle by using the lock on river right. When in a group assign a lead and sweep boat manned by experienced paddlers.
• Stay in your boat if it becomes stuck and carefully shift your weight as you push off with your paddle or pole.
• Never paddle farther from shore than you are prepared to swim.
• In an emergency, stay with your boat.

Planning

• Review the Congaree River Blue Trail map. (link to map)
• Know where your trip will take you, where to get out, and emergency routes.
• Make sure you identify and avoid hazards marked on the map.
• Allow enough time to complete your trip within daylight hours.
• Check river conditions. A flooded river can be dangerous and should be avoided. A low river may expose logs or rocks and require carrying your boat, which may make your trip slower and more difficult.
• Congaree River flows are affected by hyrdoelectric power generation at upstream dams on the Saluda and Broad rivers. Water levels can change significantly due to operations of these dams even if there has not been any precipitation. Check flow levels on the USGS website and look for "Congaree River at Columbia" or "Congaree River at Congaree NP near Gadsden" stations.

Gear

• Always wear a properly fitted U.S Coast Guard approved life jacket.
• Dress for the weather and be prepared to get wet.
• Bring a spare paddle or pole.
• Wear shoes with tops and sides for optimal protection. Avoid sandals.
• South Carolina state law requires that each boat carry a noise making device. A flashlight, strobe, flares, horn/whistle, cell phone, VHF radio, bright flag, or mirror are other key items to bring.
• Other essentials: a first-aid kit, plenty of drinking water, sunscreen, sunglasses, and bug repellent.

Weather

• Check weather conditions before your trip. Do not go if the weather is beyond the ability of the least experienced person in your group.
• During your trip, stay alert to changing weather conditions.
• Get off the water during electrical storms.
• Canoe close to shore.
• Drink plenty of liquids to stay hydrated.

Trips and launch sites

The Congaree River Blue Trail offers excellent paddling opportunities for both day and overnight trips. A trip from the West Columbia Landing or Senate Street Landing to Rosewood Landing will take 2 to 5 hours depending on your ability level, water levels, weather conditions, and other activities you may enjoy such as picnicking, or fishing. You may extend your trip a few miles to the Cayce Landing.

Warning! The Cayce Landing is the last public access point before the 601 Bridge, 45 miles downstream. If you continue past the Cayce Landing, be prepared to camp at least one night. The following is a brief description of the public access points that can be used for day trips:

• West Columbia Landing is located on the west side of the Congaree River at the Gervais Street Bridge.
• Jordan (Rosewood) Landing is located on river left roughly 0.5 miles below the Cayce Lock. Beware of the low-head dam directly below the railroad trestle. It is difficult to see from the river. Avoid the dam by using the lock on the river right.
• Newman (Cayce) Landing is located on river right roughly 2 miles below Rosewood Landing. Warning! This is the last take out before the 601 Bridge, 45 miles downstream.

Overnight trips are popular along the Congaree River Blue Trail. Most paddlers can make the trip in two days, but the trip can be extended to 3 to 4 days. There are numerous sandbars to camp on below Columbia, but beware of fluctuating river levels due to precipitation and upstream hydropower operations. If you camp on a sandbar, camp as high on the sandbar as possible and tie down your boat. Better camping options are in Congaree National Park, 25 miles downstream of Columbia. Camping is permitted in the park with a free backcountry camping permit. Learn more about camping and permitting in Congaree National Park.

Congaree National Park

The highlight of the Congaree River Blue Trail is the Congaree National Park, located 20-miles downstream of Columbia on river left. It was designated South Carolina’s first national park in 2003. Originally founded as the Congaree Swamp National Monument in 1976, the park is home to more than 15,000 acres of wilderness and covers more than 22,200 acres total. Paddlers and hikers alike can enjoy the network of 20 miles of hiking trails within the park and take advantage of opportunities to camp, fish, watch birds, and study nature. Guided walks and canoe trips are offered free of charge. Learn about special events and program.

The park protects the largest contiguous area of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest remaining in the United States. This unique and increasingly rare forest ecosystem depends on the health of the Congaree River for providing periodic seasonal flooding.

The Harry Hampton Visitor Center is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. except December 25. During daylight savings time, the visitor center is open from 8:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. An official park map and guide, a self-guided boardwalk brochure, species lists, and camping and fishing regulations are all available online or at the Harry Hampton Visitor Center.

Backcountry camping in Congaree National Park is a great way to experience the wilderness. Free camping permits (issued for up to 14 days) must be obtained in advance. Campsites must be at least 100 feet away from backcountry trails, rivers, and streams. To protect the wilderness, campfires are not allowed in the backcountry, so cooking must be with a camp stove only. Full camping regulations (including “leave no trace” principles) and permit applications are available online or at the Congaree Visitor Center. Camping is primitive, with no designated camp pads or additional amenities.

A journey down the blue trail

Here are some of the historical, cultural, and natural landmarks you will see during your adventure.

Gervais Street Bridge: At least three unsuccessful attempts were made in the 1790s to bridge the Congaree River. The existing bridge opened in 1927, replacing an earlier bridge constructed in 1827. The earlier bridge was burned by Confederate forces in 1865 to impede the Union advance on Columbia. Union forces instead entered Columbia by crossing the Saluda and Broad rivers to the northwest, though not before shelling Columbia from the opposite bank. The remains of the original bridge are still visible along the West Columbia Riverwalk portion of the Three Rivers Greenway.


Granby Lock and Dam, Friday’s Ferry, and Columbia Canal: The Granby Lock and Dam were in use by 1905 to by-pass the rocky shoals of the Congaree River between Granby Landing and Gervais Street. When the river was low, movable wickets attached to the river bottom were raised to create a 4-foot rise in the height of the river. This allowed vessels using the lock to continue up the river without interference. When water was high, the wickets could be lowered and vessels proceeded up the river without using the lock.

The southern terminus of the historic Columbia Canal was located here as well. The canal was constructed in 1824 by Abraham Blanding and continued to Senate Street, connecting to canals on the Broad and Saluda rivers. The canal was damaged by an 1840 flood and fell into disuse around 1845. Many plans were made over the years to restore this original stretch of the canal, but never came to fruition.

The site of the Granby Lock and Dam marks the site of much of Columbia’s early history. The village of Granby (originally called “the Congarees”) on the Lexington side of the river was the first settlement in Saxe-Gothe, one of the townships created by South Carolina in 1733 to encourage inland settlement. The village was the site of a Revolutionary War siege and American victory shortly after the battles of Fort Watson and Fort Motte.

Friday’s Ferry connected the village to a landing on the Richland side of the river. The ferry was established as a public ferry by Martin Fridig (later Friday) in 1754, and at one time was managed by Wade Hampton (1754-1835). The village of Granby fell into decline with the designation of Columbia as the state capital.

Granite Quarries: Two quarries located on opposite sides of the Congaree River are major sources of construction material. Granite rock consisting primarily of quartz, feldspar, and biotite is extracted from this Piedmont geology.

Congaree Creek Heritage Preserve: This 630-acre preserve borders the Congaree River and the City of Cayce, and protects stands of locally rare Atlantic White Cedar along Congaree Creek. Archaeologists have found tools, arrowheads, and other evidence that people have lived in and around the preserve for nearly 12,000 years. The Cherokee Trail, leading from the Appalachian Mountains to the coast, runs through the preserve. The trail was later used by European traders and military forces during the Revolutionary War.

The Congaree earthworks, located on the north side of Congaree Creek, were built in the final months of the Civil War by John R. Niernsee, one of the most prominent architects (he designed the State Capitol) and engineers in South Carolina at the time. The fortifications represent a final defense for the City of Columbia prior to the arrival of General Sherman’s Union Army on February 15, 1865.

Boating access to the creek is currently limited to a drop-in from the riverbank at bridges. Boaters who wish to travel Congaree Creek to the Congaree River should be prepared to portage over downed trees that may obstruct the creek channel. Hikers can walk an easy 2.5-mile trail loop and view wildlife and historic clay quarries for nearby brickworks. For additional information contact the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources at 803-734-3893.

Howell’s Ferry and Myrick’s Ferry: Howell’s Ferry was part of a road system constructed around 1756, by Thomas Howell, a prominent cattleman and landowner. The road leading from Howell’s Ferry, commissioned in 1766, was one of the first public roads in Richland County. Myrick’s Ferry, dating back to 1749, was located north of Mill Creek near Green Hill, a large point bar in the floodplain that shows signs of use by Native Americans.

Congaree National Park: The highlight of the Congaree River Blue Trail, the Congaree National Park is located 20 miles downstream of Columbia on river left. It was designated South Carolina’s first national park in 2003. Originally founded as Congaree Swamp National Monument in 1976, the park is home to more than 15,000 acres of wilderness and covers almost 25,000 acres total. Paddlers and hikers alike can enjoy the network of 20 miles of hiking trails within the park and take advantage of opportunities to camp, fish, watch birds, and study nature. Guided walks and canoe trips are offered free of charge. Learn about special events and programs.

The park protects the largest contiguous area of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest remaining in the U.S. The health of this unique and increasingly rare forest ecosystem depends on the periodic seasonal flooding of the Congaree River.

The Harry Hampton Visitor Center is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. except December 25. During daylight savings time, the visitor center is open from 8:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. An official park map and guide, a self-guided boardwalk brochure, species lists, and camping and fishing regulations are all available online or at the Harry Hampton Visitor Center.

Permitting & camping within the park: Backcountry camping in Congaree National Park is a great way to experience the wilderness. Free camping permits (issued for up to 14 days) must be obtained in advance. Campsites must be at least 100 feet away from backcountry trails, rivers, and streams. To protect the wilderness, campfires are not allowed in the backcountry, so cooking must be with a camp stove only. Full camping regulations (including “leave no trace” principles) and permit applications are available online or at the Harry Hampton Visitor Center. Camping is primitive, with no designated camp pads or additional amenities.

Stump Gut: Located inside Congaree National Park is a series of channels that connect the floodplain to the Congaree River. Take out just after the gut and explore old growth cypress trees that are easily accessible by foot a few hundred yards inland.

Huger’s Ferry: Established in 1786, Huger’s Ferry was located at the plantation of Isaac Huger, a general in the Continental Army and the son of a wealthy merchant and planter. The ferry became obsolete when McCord’s Ferry was re-chartered in 1792. Remnants of the road to Huger’s Ferry are still visible in Congaree National Park.

Fort Motte (private property): During the American Revolution, the British seized and fortified the mansion of Rebecca Brewton Motte at Mount Joseph plantation along the Congaree River. The fortified mansion became known as Fort Motte. On May 12, 1781, Patriots led by General Francis Marion and Colonel Henry Lee forced the British and Loyalist occupants to surrender by setting the mansion’s roof ablaze with Rebecca Motte’s consent.

Congaree Bluffs Heritage Preserve: Located on river right across from Congaree National Park, this 201-acre preserve features steep, undisturbed bluffs rising 150 feet above the Congaree River and offers a spectacular overlook of the national park. The preserve harbors stands of upland and bottomland forests, and cultural remains from prehistoric and historic periods.

Boaters may enter the preserve from the river; however, there are no maintained docking or access structures on the bank. A walking trail (less than 1 mile) leads from the river’s edge to the top of the bluff. Along the bluff crest, visitors can use an observation deck, covered picnic shelter, and an education center or access an interior trail. No camping is allowed.

Public access and two parking areas are available from Turkey Track Lane, off State Secondary Road 25 less than 1 mile west of Fort Motte. The preserve does not offers maintained boat access to the river. For more information contact the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources at 803-734-3886.

Devil’s Elbow (private property): On river left is Devil’s Elbow, an example of one of the many oxbow lakes found along the Congaree. Oxbow lakes are formed when a river changes course, cutting off an existing meander and creating a new channel in the process.

Norfolk Southern Railroad Bridge: The railroad segment from Branchville to Columbia is the second oldest railroad in South Carolina. Constructed in 1838-1842 by the Louisville, Cincinnati, and Charleston Rail Road Company, it consolidated with the South Carolina Canal and Rail Road Company to form the South Carolina Rail Road Company in 1844.

Bates Old River (flanked by private property): Bates Old River is an oxbow lake that was part of the Congaree River until a great flood in 1852 cut if off from the main channel. Bates Old River is one of the longest oxbow lakes in South Carolina. The inlet and outlet of Bates Old River are still discernible along the northeast bank of the Congaree’s present channel. Access to Bates Old River using an unimproved boat ramp is available from Highway 601.

McCord’s Ferry (Bates Ferry): Authorized in 1766, McCord’s Ferry was located near the northern tip of the Congaree River’s great meander, which was later cut off from the main river channel. The ferry was named after John McCord, a trader to local tribes and captain of a frontier ranger company during the French and Indian War. McCord’s Ferry was a strategic river crossing during the Revolutionary War. American forces camped near the landing during the siege of Fort Motte and forces were stationed at the ferry to protect American troops laying siege to the fort. A second ferry was authorized in the 1840s as the Congaree River was gradually cutting its new channel. It also was the site of skirmishes during the Civil War. At the time of the Civil War and for years after, these crossings were known as Bates Ferry.

Bates Bridge (Hwy 601): The Congaree River Blue Trail ends at Bates Bridge Landing at Highway 601 (river mile 51). The next take out is Low Falls Landing, approximately 15 miles downstream in the headwaters of Lake Marion. Bates Bridge Landing floods periodically, making it a poor choice for long-term parking.

History

For thousands of years before Europeans arrived in present-day South Carolina, the Congaree River valley was frequented by Indians. Evidence of their presence can be found on river bluffs and terraces, sand bars, natural point bars, and man-made mounds along the river valley.

Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto explored the area in 1540, followed by Juan Pardo in 1567 and Englishman John Lawson in 1700. The Congaree River took its name from the Native Americans these explorers encountered. In 1715, the Congaree Indians fought against the colonists in the Yemassee War. After the war, more than half of the remaining population was captured and enslaved by the colonists, while the remainder of the tribe left the area permanently.

With the disappearance of the Congaree Indians, the new European settlers obtained land grants from the King of England until 1776, when the State of South Carolina assumed the right to distribute land to private owners.

Beginning in 1730s, many of the first land grants in Richland County were located along the Congaree River, both opposite Friday’s Ferry and near the mouths of Mill Creek and Gills Creek. Settlers and cotton planters farmed the fertile floodplain soil, while adapting agricultural practices to mitigate the effects of spring “freshets” and larger tropical floods. Agricultural dikes can be seen on the Richland side of the Congaree River below Cayce Landing, and are also preserved in Congaree National Park as part of its cultural and historical legacy.

Cattle mounds were constructed along the river to herd cattle grazing in the floodplain forests in times of floods; hay and feed could then be provided by boat. Some of these cattle mounds are still found along the river, including in Congaree National Park.

In lower Richland County, the Congaree River and its floodplain forests have been particularly important in the lives of African Americans. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, plantation and farm slave labor dominated. Published accounts show that slaves roamed these floodplain forests, seeking escape from the harsh realities of slave life. After Emancipation, African Americans became landowners and farmers themselves, building homes and churches in present-day Hopkins and Gadsden, South Carolina. Their intimate knowledge of specific local landmarks (such as Bannister Bridge, Cowpen Lake, Jumpin’ Gut, and Goose Lake) was depicted in the late 1920s by Edward C. L. Adams in his famous collection of African-American folklore, Tales of the Congaree.

In the late 1800s, large tracts of land in the Congaree and Santee River systems were owned by Francis Beilder and the Santee River Cypress Lumber Company. Logging in the floodplain was confined to tracts near the main river and creek channels due to poor accessibility to the interior of the floodplain. In these areas, cypress trees were girdled and dried while standing to prevent sinking during river transport before felling. The dry trees were then floated down river to saw mills. Operations were effectively halted by 1915; though most of the old-growth cypress trees were gone, much of the remaining forest was left relatively untouched.

Harry Hampton, outdoorsman and writer, started a long campaign in the 1950s to protect the forests in the Congaree and Santee floodplains. In 1969, relatively high timber prices prompted private landowners to consider resuming logging operations. As a result of an effective grassroots campaign launched by local citizens, Congress established Congaree Swamp National Monument in 1976. That designation was not enough to protect the area from the force of Hurricane Hugo in September 1989. The park lost several national champion trees, but the overall effect opened up the canopy and was a natural stimulus for growth.

On June 30, 1983, Congaree Swamp National Monument was designated an International Biosphere Reserve. In July 2001, it was designated a Globally Important Bird Area, and in November 2003, it was designated the nation’s 57th National Park. In May 2006, portions of Cedar Creek inside the park were designated Outstanding National Resource Waters.

Environment, geology, and wildlife

Environment

The Congaree River, 51 miles long from the confluence of the Saluda and Broad rivers at Gervais Street Bridge to the Wateree River, is a bottomland hardwood forest ecosystem. Bottomland hardwood forests are characterized by frequent flooding and by the deciduous trees that thrive in these wetlands. Bottomland hardwood support a diverse number of plant and animal species that rely on periodic flooding, abundance of natural cover, and foraging opportunities year round. They are commonly found in the floodplain of rivers in the Southeast and South Central U.S.

Two hundred years ago, old growth bottomland hardwood forests covered almost thirty million acres across the Southeast. Today, only a small percentage remains due in part to river impoundment, development, and the conversion of forest to farmland. Congaree National Park is home to one of the nation’s last significant tracts of old growth bottomland hardwood forest.

Geology

The fall line is a narrow zone of transition between the Piedmont and the Coastal Plain and is so named because it marks the last appearance of bedrock waterfalls in river channels along the Atlantic Coast. Upstream from this point, river channels are rocky and straight, with abundant rapids. Below the fall line, rivers tend to open up and bend gently back and forth as they flow over the coastal plain. From a geological perspective, it represents the contact between outcrops of crystalline Piedmont rocks (like granite) and the sedimentary deposits of the Coastal Plain.

The modern fall line crosses the Congaree River just south of the Gervais Street Bridge. If you watch closely you can see the character of the river, as well as the vegetation, begin to slowly change within a half-mile of the Gervais Street Bridge. The banks contain Coastal Plain vegetation starting just below the bridge, but there are outcrops of rock in the river channel down to just above the Cayce Landing. Historically the fall line marked the inland limit of major river travel, and is the reason for the location of Columbia, as well as several other major cities including Raleigh, NC, Richmond, VA, and Washington, DC.

The Congaree River Valley is a broad notch cut into the Upper Coastal Plain and filled with river deposits. These deposits are shaped into numerous terraces, which are flat surfaces representing old floodplains. Terraces are separated by fluvial scarps, which represent periods of significant erosion when the river cut deeper down into the earth. The younger terraces were deposited by rivers emptying into shorelines of the Middle and Lower Coastal Plains over the last 3 to 3.5 million years.

The Congaree River Floodplain contains many old river courses dating back at least 21,000 years, during the last ice age. From this colder time, we have pollen, which acts as a fingerprint for plants, from spruce trees. In order to find spruce trees growing at this elevation today, one needs to go as far north as Eastern Canada. Other deposits in the Congaree River Floodplain include an old river course that formed at a time when the river was not a single channel but a network of braided channels. This deposit, which formed under cold, ice age conditions, may be as old as 60,000 years. Other places in the Congaree River Floodplain contain sand dunes that were forming during the last ice age, likely as recently as 15,000 years ago. Click here to learn more about South Carolina’s geology.

Wildlife

The Congaree River corridor is home to many mammal species. On a trip down the blue trail one is likely to encounter white tail deer, beaver, river otter, and the invasive feral hog. The federally endangered shortnose sturgeon is one of the many fish species that migrate from coastal waters to spawn in the Congaree River near Columbia. Other migrant species include striped bass, American shad, and blueback herring. Learn more about endangered and threatened species in South Carolina.

America’s national symbol, the bald eagle, often visits the Congaree River, especially near Columbia. The eagles fish for food among the river’s rocky shoals. Another stately bird, the swallowtail kite, is a rare sight in the lower river near Congaree National Park. Mississippi kites and red-shouldered hawks are fairly common sightings. Species you may see and are likely to hear include barred owl, pileated woodpecker, yellow-billed cuckoo, northern flicker, chimey swift, and belted kingfisher. Get a checklist of birds you may spot in Congaree National Park.

Fishing is a popular activity on the Congaree River. The upper section of the blue trail, through Columbia, supports a healthy population of smallmouth bass that have moved downstream from the Broad River in recent years. In the spring, large numbers of striped bass migrate up the Congaree River to spawn. Fish are typically in the 5-10 pound range with a few over 30 pounds caught every year. Largemouth bass are common throughout the river and provide good angling year round. Large blue catfish as well as flathead and channel catfish can be found in some of the deeper holes in the lower section of the trail. A South Carolina fishing license is required to fish on the Congaree River.